Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.